SODs
http://sods.freeforums.org/

DIY LED CAN
http://sods.freeforums.org/diy-led-can-t448-60.html		 Page 5 of 6
Author:  sunkarm [ Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/gear-e ... light.html
Author:  Packhorse [ Fri Aug 15, 2008 2:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Just got hold of another driver.
This one is a diffrent breed than the original one I am using.

It can run off a 12v supply but gets very hot so I have heat sinked it.

It is a 3 stage driver giving high med and low.

It looks like it is designed to run off 2 Li Ion cells at 7.4v or 5-6 NiMh cells at 6-7.2 volt.
It has a low voltage warning where it starts flashing at 5.5volt and a high temp warning also.

Anyway as it is it will not work in my latest can light due to it only having 4 NiMh's because it goes directly to low voltage warning so I will add another 2 cells to my battery pack.

As mentioned it does run from 12v but gets scorching hot so I have added a heat sink.
Image

Image
Author:  350xfire [ Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:50 am ]
Post subject: 
Packhorse wrote:
More progress.
Image
Image

Interesting thing is with the light at this size and by adding a switch you can still get a 2.5 hour burn time!!! Add 4 cm and get 5 hours!!

So why make it a can light then you ask? That way if I drop it it will not float away! :wink:


Packhorse:
Which batteries would you be using to accomplish these quoted burtimes?
Author:  350xfire [ Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:52 am ]
Post subject: 
Packhorse wrote:
The handle will slide in about 10mm to the head where it then stops against the thread. The head isnt modified at all. The hanlde is only cut to lenglth and then the last 10mm is sanded to remove the anodized finnish for a better surface for the epoxy to take to.


I ground out the threads on the light head and was able to press the tube all the way in. This also allows for more surface area for the epoxy seal.
Author:  350xfire [ Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:10 am ]
Post subject:  Here is my P7
Here is a pic from about 15 feet away.
Lef is P7, right is 21W Salvo, bottom Oxycheq Raider II. Oxycheq $55, P7 $200, Salvo $1000.... Building a $200 light that can keep up with a $1000 light... Priceless....

http://s535.photobucket.com/albums/ee35 ... G_0422.jpg

There are 8 pics of the light you can see. I used 8 AA batteries NiMH Energizers. I have run over 30 minutes in a bucket of water so far with no problems. Next test will be August 27 in Cave Country--- Florida. An instructor a DM and I are going cave diving.
Author:  plumb bob [ Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:27 am ]
Post subject: 
That is a sweet looking light! I' be very keen to see some underwater shots.. I've got a couple of HIDs to rattle out then I'm doing some LED units for sure!!

:D
Author:  darkman0101 [ Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:41 am ]
Post subject: 
Those are some sexy looking cans (that sounds like something you'd hear on the terraces at the cricket).

Sorry Packhorse, but they make your (albeit ingenious) PVC can look somewhat average. :P

Still, bet they cost a damn sight more too.
Author:  350xfire [ Wed Aug 20, 2008 3:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
http://s535.photobucket.com/albums/ee35 ... G_0428.jpg

http://s535.photobucket.com/albums/ee35 ... G_0429.jpg


Here's my P7 with my Oxycheq goodman handle or hand sock originally made for the Raider II, but with a little force, fits on a Maglite..
Author:  Packhorse [ Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:10 am ]
Post subject: 
350xfire wrote:
Packhorse:
Which batteries would you be using to accomplish these quoted burtimes?

5000mah "C" Li Ion. If you run a couple in parallel you will get long run times . But for best results you will need a LED with a low Vf or it will not run at a full 2.8 amps.
I have 2 P7s I brought at the same time. 1 has a Vf or 3.1volt and the other is 3.7volt. This would make a huge difference to a Paralleled Li Ion set up.
Author:  Packhorse [ Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:34 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Here is my P7
350xfire wrote:
Here is a pic from about 15 feet away....


Good stuff. Isnt it so satisfying to build something like this yourself and finally get it going then find its nearly as good as a unit 5 times the price!!

Looks like you could do with a switch guard to protect that switch boot though.
Author:  Packhorse [ Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:45 am ]
Post subject: 
darkman0101 wrote:
Those are some sexy looking cans (that sounds like something you'd hear on the terraces at the cricket).

Sorry Packhorse, but they make your (albeit ingenious) PVC can look somewhat average. :P

Still, bet they cost a damn sight more too.


Yeah, but there are a couple of aspects of a delrin can I dont like.
1st is the toggle switch that they all seem to use. I much prefer a reed switch as it has less chance of leaking. Next is the hose clamps that are used for mounting the can.
I reckon if I paint mine black it will improve its looks. :wink:
Author:  350xfire [ Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:04 am ]
Post subject: 
Packhorse wrote:
darkman0101 wrote:
Those are some sexy looking cans (that sounds like something you'd hear on the terraces at the cricket).

Sorry Packhorse, but they make your (albeit ingenious) PVC can look somewhat average. :P

Still, bet they cost a damn sight more too.


Yeah, but there are a couple of aspects of a delrin can I dont like.
1st is the toggle switch that they all seem to use. I much prefer a reed switch as it has less chance of leaking. Next is the hose clamps that are used for mounting the can.
I reckon if I paint mine black it will improve its looks. :wink:



HA!!!! I have fooled EVERYONE.... That is not Delrin. It is PVC. It turs out that if you take 3" pipe, ciut in half lengthwise and heat in in a 400 degree oven for abour 10 minutes, you can make flat sheets by placing something heavy on the PVC while it's hot. Then you can glue sheets together and make a thick flat sheet which you can cut lid circles out of it with hole saws and forstner bits. I found this info on the internet. Makes for a really nice looking can. I coated the can with some Duplicolor truck bed coating which has a wrinkle finish.

This type of can is more expensive since I spent- $32 on 2 glands, and about $30 on the latches from Dive Rite. I did install one of the latches a little crooked which is kind of a pain, but looks good.
Author:  Packhorse [ Mon Aug 25, 2008 8:28 am ]
Post subject: 
Good stuff.

Yeah PVC is a great heat and bend product.
I tried something similar for a latched lid and found that it warped and leaked. Mine was more of an end cap latched into place. Yours sounds a lot stronger so hopefully you will not have the same issues.
Author:  darkman0101 [ Mon Aug 25, 2008 3:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
Packhorse,
how do you measure the Vf of the LED?

If I measure the potential difference across the LED, won't I just get the voltage that is required to run the LED at 2.8A (or the supply voltage if direct driving the LED)?
Author:  Packhorse [ Mon Aug 25, 2008 3:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thats it.
Run it at 2.8amp and measure the voltage at the LED (not at the battery).

If you have 2 LEDs in series then they will have the same current go thru them but they will have a diffrent voltage drop. In parallel they will have the same voltage but diffrent current. Assuming the LEDs are not totally identical that is. Which they dont seem to be.
Page 5 of 6 All times are UTC + 12 hours
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group
http://www.phpbb.com/