Left 21w HID right P7 mag

Left 50watt (35wtt driven at 14.4v) Halogen 8deg Philips masterline ES MR16 Centre 21w Salvo Right P7

Conclusion
P7 does not give out as much light as the other 2 but its tight focus and better colour makes it a far better dive light than the halo.

Its simply not in the same league as the 21w HID but then its not in the same price bracket either. Maybe 3 P7's will give out more light but it will not get the same focus. (I will probably try it anyway).

Good one, It'll be good to see a comparison of the 10w HID...

Yeah, its hi colour temp will be a definite advantage.

almost looks like you had a disco going on there

So Packhorse,
in conclusion (at least until you built a multi-emitter variant):
Was is worth it?
Would you be happy to use the P7-mag as your primary (not necessarily on a wreck dive)?
Regrets/Wish list? - What is it missing that you wish was a little better?

I'm about to get me my P7 and driver boards, but might hold off until your thoughts - (not sure what I'd do with the two heatsinks I've got sitting on my desk though...)

Was it worth it?
Cost of parts including glue and stuff that will last for a few more yet comes in under $300. Sure it took hours and hours but I enjoyed doing it.
Compared to any other $300 dive light this simply blows them away. In fact I think you would have to spend $1K+ to get something close.
In the above pic it looks like a poor performer but lets remember its against a 21w HID and a 50 watt halogen.
In fact I think it is a better light than the halogen due to its colour and focus not to mention its efficiency.

Im more than happy to use this as a primary light. I think it will work wonderfully in a wreck.

Regrets/wish list.
External charging points. I didnt get to try these out but will at some stage soon and may retro fit them.
Perhaps should have gone for 16mm cable glands and thicker cable instead of 12mm glands. The thicker cable should be more wear resistant. Although my other can light uses 12mm glands and the same size cable and has no issues.
I would like a single piece thicker lens instead of 2 pieces of 1.8mm glass. But these were cheap and available. I have some acrylic I could use instead but its not scratch resistant like glass.
The canister is a little ugly but works well. I would have preferred Delrin but I dont have a lathe nor could I think of a satisfactory way to implement a reed switch. I really dont like the rubber booted togle design most use.
Multi level would have been a nice addition too but that didnt happen. Although I think I would have just left it on high all the time anyway.
In the end I do wish it was brighter if only so it wasnt over powered by Flippers Salvo. But as I said before it is only a 10w light.
Already got the next one planned out though.
3 x P7 leds in a Mag running thru a 3 level driver.
I am expecting that the focus may not be as tight. Probably closer to the halogen but much brighter and better colour.
I will be modifying my old halo light so expence should be a lot lower. Just 3 LEDs, 3 reflectors, driver and a custom heat sink.

Given the price and the size, I've got to admit this is certainly an impressive torch. The light colour is excellent for murky water or mid level light conditions, and the focus is impressive compared to some of the LEDs I've seen out there.

If you could make 'em pretty, and knock them out for $900, I'm sure there's be a market.

Hmm. I do have a source for completed Delrin cannisters.

And soon it will be a reliable source.... I hurt my back climbing yesterday so couldn't get to the lathe today...

Sigh - now I'm perplexed, (been checking out the MSN divelight forum).
Packhorse - what did you do with regards to the o-rings?

Where and what sizes are the o-rings placed?
Did you have to sand down the head at all (as I've read in a few places).
Where did you source your replacement o-rings from?

Jas

There are two common ways to modify a Mag for diving.
The first and easiest is to just replace all the O rings with slightly bigger ones. This is what I did. The second way is to use a "stepped lens" and have an extra O ring under the lens. This method requires more work and funnily enough a stepped lens. It will in theory be more leak resistant but I have had mine below 50meters several times with no leaks.
Sanding down the head is not required with the way I did it.
Your other O ring questions have already been answered earlier on in the thread.

O rings came from Seal House East Tamaki.

Ahhh cheers.

Did you end up getting a Pack of 10x AMC7135(x4), or did you find and alternative source? Don't know what I would do with the extra 8 (except build more lights maybe... Mmmmmwwhaaaa)

Yeah I got 10. They are cheap enuf. If you want you could use 3 and knock one chip off each. Switch them individually and you would have 3 power levels. Low Mid and full ( although this would over drive it by 12.5%).
I have some spare if you want. I also have spare 50mm glass lenses and a reflector.

A couple of driver boards, a couple of lenses (are they the 52x1.8mm ones?) and a reflector would be brilliant - only if you don't have a use for them though - otherwise, I have other stuff I need from DX anyway and can wait.

Let me know how much you want to sting me for