If anyone seriously wants one I will take orders. Although Plumb Bob is probably a better option for the Can side of the system. I hear he has a nice Delrin can design coming along.

Double glanded tail cap.

The external one was bolted in place. The internal one was then placed back to back with the other and then the tail cap is filled with epoxy.
My 1st mag lite just used a single gland and never leaked. If it did it would have destroyed a $10 MR16 bulb. If this one was to leak it would destroy a $30 LED and maybe a $10 reflector. Not to mention ruin a dive.

The cable is uber expenceve 1000m rated submarine cable that is self healing and even if cut will stop the ingress of water into the light head or canister. Cost is $100 per meter.
Na not really. Its normal circular cross section 240volt power cable robbed from a computer monitor.

Edit: After the first leak test I found that the cable glands had loosened. It seems this cable had compressed overnight and the glands required re tightening. I have since changed the cable to a rubber coated cable. Its basically heavy duty extension lead cable. I will of course re tighten the glands after a day or so.

Packie, if you can let me know the optimum battery configuration (ie width and height) for this light I can look at designing a can specifically for it if folk are serious about getting some made up, the one I'm doing at the moment is 70mm in diameter and 200mm long.

If we looked at Li-on we should be able to get a smaller can for this i'd imagine...

So I guess if folk are serously interested then speak up so I can get an idea of numbers to cost out the can.

It's snowing very heavily here!! hopefully the road south will be unpassable tomorrow and I won't be able to get to work..

I'd love a can and lid made up for my 35w HID, I got the battery and and the bulb, but thats it. It's just been sitting on the back burner for a year or two...

I also need the head to milled from ali, as delrin gets too hot....well so I've been told, I reckon it would be fine in the water this time of the year

I'll send you a PM shortly Hybrid. (better not drag this too far off topic).

Some interesting beam shots of diffrent lights.

Check out the Colman Conversion 50watt HID with 8 inch reflector!!!

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175386

Warning lots of pics.

man the 50w HID is a one badass mutha! CAn you imagine accidently shining that in someones eyes on a dive...hahHAHAHa they'd be blind for a week.

Packhorse,
if you're going to get anything else from dealextreme, let me know and I'll get some stuff at the same time.

BTW, how are you driving the LED? Are you direct driving it, or using a driver board?

I am currently awaiting an order. But since its all free shipping there is no real reason to get group orders.
Im using 8 amc7135 drivers (8x 350ma=2.8amp) 4 per board.
You can direct drive a P7 if you are using a 3.7v Li Ion or a group in parallel but it may be over driven on a fresh charge and under driven for the last 3/4 charge.
The driver boards are cheap so even if you do go the Li Ion route I would suggest using a driver to save the LED.
4 NiCd or NiMh ( or 3 alkalines) are the best way to get the most from a P7.

Ah yep,
so is it a single mode unit (no high, med, low)?
Then again, being connected to a can I suppose there is little call to run the thing on maximum output.

Did you get the AMC7135s from DX? They only seem to do them in sheets of 10.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1886

These are the drivers here.

They have 4 AMC 7135's per board so each board will deliver 1.4amps

Have each board powered by its own switch/relay and you have half and full power options.

Or get a multi mode board and wire it to one of the above as a slave and set multi mode.

It seems to me that multi mode may get a bit annoying when using the light. A simple 3 position switch controlled by 2 reeds and relays is ummm simple! Off Half Full.
On the other hand if you are using piezos or toggle switches then a multi mode may be better.

Sheesh - you must be sick of me...

Do you need the relays? what current is on the input side of the each AMC7135 board?

Surely we aren't switching 2.8A???

The current in to the board is the same as the current out.
The voltage will vary though (always less out). Excess voltage is wasted in the for of heat.
Yes you do need relays if you are using reed switches unless you use MOSFETs instead but Im not.
Most reed switches are limited to 100mA (0.1amp)
Yes you are switching 2.8amps. Although in my set up I will be switching 2 lots of 1.4 amps. 1 for half power and the other for the other lot of half power.

The AMC 7135s can only be used with up to 6v supply otherwise they overheat.

This should explain it better..... Its for a single board 1.4amps

See how the current stays the same but the voltage (and efficiency) drop.



http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2406347#post2406347

Oh I see.
Where did you source your relays/reed switches from. DSE don't have a lot of options if I don't use a can to house the electronics (which I was hoping to avoid).