Hello. Stumbled across this thread in my search for "the perfect" can light build. I must say I'm quite impressed, and will probably go this direction! Bravo!

However, I did have a few questions:
1) What is your "custom heatsink from the 'sandwich shop'". Afraid I don't quite get this...

2) What sort of switch configuration do you have set up? Are you utilizing the 3 mode driver, or do you just have an on-off switch, with the driver set to high?

3) I really like the idea of the aspherical lenses. Kai Domain has 2 interesting lens arrays though, which you may find intersting:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails ... uctId=1794
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails ... uctId=1858
Don't know what the difference is, my understanding is that an aspherical lens's purpose is to collimate a light source....
(sorry, don't know if I'm allowed to post direct links or not...)

Hi Moose,

1. Its a custom made heat sink that fits inside the maglite head and protrudes down inside the handle.
At least the one I eventually made up myself does.
You can see it here with the LEDs mounted on one end and the driver on the other.

2. I use a reed switch that operates a relay (or MOSFET if you prefer) It simply turns it on then off. To cycle driver modes to turn the switch off and on fast.
3. From my understanding those are not aspherics ( even though one is listed as such). Aspheric lenses are basic just like a lens in a camera or binoculars. they focus the light, where a collimator refracts the light and a reflector reflects the light.
Im currently making up several of these light heads for fellow club members. PM me if you are interested.

First of all AWSOM LIGHT, I did have a sew questions though.

1) How did you focus the lenses. Did you just space them 10mm from the emitter or did you have to angle them?

2) You mentioned using a rees switch, do you know wher to get a reed switch that will handle the 2.8 amps coming out of the driver or did you have to step down the current. I am not very electronicly gifted so if you could explain in VERY lamens terms it would be appreciated.

1. the lens is spaced out from the LED. actually its more like 12mm. I listed the lenses I used above. Different ones will get different results. These were the best I could find and I tried a few. You do need to much about a little aligning all 4 beams and this is achieved by moving the LED in regards to the optics.

2. The reed switches are only rated at 100ma or so. They need to switch a relay or MOSFET.

from this site
Replace S1 with the reed switch. Replace R2 and D1 with your LED and driver. Voltage will be higher than 5v.

I found these reed switches last night and needed an opinion, http://www.surplussales.com/Relays/REReed-1.html ((KO) DRR-DTH-445). they said they were good for 5 amp and i thought i could put in line on the negative lead. I might be mistaken but it seems that would simplify things.


SPDT Reed Tube

(KO) DRR-DTH-445
The ideal Reed switch and here's why: 1. It has form C, SPDT contacts. 2. Contacts rated 250v, 5 amp, 30 watt. 3. Small size, 3/16"D x 2-1/4"L. 4. Highest quality by Hamlin. 5. Sealed tube is weather proof. 6. We have 18,000 in stock so save big bucks off the $6 OEM price. Trip reed switch with permanent magnet as in alarm system, or wrap tube with magnet wire for very low current switch.

Yeah that should work. Have not seen one rated that high before.

Hi Packhorse

I have been watching the progress for quite a while now and I am convinced you are on to a winner. I am now ready to start my own project!

I am still unsure on a few things:
1. How have you mounted the 4 aspheric lenses away from the LEDs and how are they held in place?

2. How is the reed switch positioned in the handle and do you use a rotating collar on the outside of the light head?

3. How do you operate the different power modes with the reed switch?

Cheers

1. I used some PVC pipe. I had to cut it to length and cut down the diameter on the lathe but the internal diameter was perfect. The LEDs and lens holders are held in place with thermal glue available from DX. I use acrylic cement to glue the lenses to the holders but I think epoxy would work also.

2.My reed switch is mounted in the cannister with a rotating collar that holds the magnet. Darkman has a handle mounted switch in this thread

3. By turning the light off then on fast it cycles thru the power levels. Leave it off for 2 second + and when you turn it back on its the same power level as before

hay packhorse.i am building a 3xq5 setup. allready got my steped lens and led. and also got the 52mm reflector. and some asferical lens. my quietion is well the p7 driver work. or would i be better off using a 1 amp driver. i am not a electrian. so the imput would be nice.and thanks for the information on the mag light head.

Yeah it will work well. Just use a 7.2-9.6volt battery pack. ( it was designed for 7.4v which is 2 Li Ion cells)

wire the 3 LEDS in parallel and they will get 2.8amps/3 = 933ma each

i was planning to push thes with a 12v 5000ma. is there a driver i could use. because i all ready got my canister built.

and also i was looking at. the buckpack driver. 1000ma .wired in series. dont know much about this stuff. so your help would be greatfull.

I have had very little experience with drivers. I have only used the AMC7135 based ones which the Vin max is about 6 volt. Great for 1 Li Ion or 3 -4 NiMh or Alkaline. The KaiDomain P7 driver which is rated up to 12v I think but seems to get really hot. You may get away with it but I recommend heat sinking it. Not sure how long it will last on a fresh charged battery pack (upto 14-15 volt).
And also the 1000ma driver that comes with the R2 and Q5 drop in's at DX. They are rated at up to 18 volt. You could try 3 XR-Es in series off of that one.
* DISCLAIMER* All at your own risk of course.

thaks for the help.

Have you tried to use a single 52mm aspheric lens instead of 4 individual ones? I didn't know if the aspheric would culminate the light or not.