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 Post subject: Canister light in 4 days?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 3:00 am 
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SOD

Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 2:42 am
Posts: 4
Good day and great stuff,

i will go on a liveaboard next week, I have a uk 1200 but I would like to have a real dive light.
Stuff from deal extreme takes around 2 weeks to reach me....so led will be on hold.
The HID canister would do for this trip. Is there a write up that I can follow to the letter in building the light in this short time?
I have a lathe but all parts should come from hardware store.


Hope you could show me the light :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 6:53 am 
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Chief SOD
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:36 pm
Posts: 2322
Location: Maraetai, Auckland
Highscores: 2
4 days? 96 hours? source parts assemble and test a can light in 5760 minutes?


Sure. Not a problem.

Start off with the standard Mag light modification out lined in other threads here and in other forums. Forget the stepped lens you dont need it. In fact you can use the stock lens at shallow depths (42 meters is where mine caused problems). With all the parts handy I could do a mag light head in several hours.

The cannister is a bit harder. You need to decide on a design. Latching lid is easy enough to do , either from pre existing tube or bored out from solid rod.
I'd spend a hour or so going thru some threads, thinking about it and sorting out a parts list.

Use a mr16 style halogen bulb for now ( recommend a tight 8 deg beam) and upgrade to LED as the parts arrive.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 9:26 am 
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SOD

Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 2:42 am
Posts: 4
Hmm quick and early reply thx.

The start would be the mr 16 8deg, what watt, and volt should I try to get.
1.5 hours burn time, I would need

The switch...magnet type?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 9:58 am 
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Post Whore
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Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2007 12:27 pm
Posts: 1382
Location: Wellington
I think 14.4 volts is the best voltage to overdrive a good quality M16 globe at, seems to be the best trade off of whiter light vs less globe life..

So twelve NIMH 4500 ah in series would give you what you need.

See if you can get the phillips 8 deg 30 watt bulbs I've used a few and they seem to be the go.

_________________
The road to truth is long, and lined the entire way with annoying bastards.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 8:35 am 
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SOD

Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 2:42 am
Posts: 4
Again thax for the info,

It seems I might be able to get some 10 or 15 deg osram. I have a reed switch not sure how to connect it....yeah with solder....and there should be some relay in to?

What about filling the light and canister with oil, keep the water out and pressure = or could the weight be a problem?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 12:28 pm 
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Chief SOD
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:36 pm
Posts: 2322
Location: Maraetai, Auckland
Highscores: 2
Id go for a 8 deg if you can or 10. Any wider and it will get too floody.

Forget filling with oil unless you plan some really deep diving. Mine has been to 55 meters with no issues or oil.

I agree with a 14.4volt battery pack for Halogen. But if you are planning to convert to LED soon then you need to consider a battery pack that will work with LEDS.
This depends on how you are going to configure the LEDs (if using multiple LEDs) and they typr of driver you are going to use.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 6:20 pm 
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SOD

Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 2:42 am
Posts: 4
Hmm will have to use the old uk1200, for the life of me I could not find a mr16 under 36 deg in this town or the capital. So then on to the led can.

Have a good one will "see" ya on the flip side of the Thistlegorm.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 7:39 pm 
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Chief SOD
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:36 pm
Posts: 2322
Location: Maraetai, Auckland
Highscores: 2
Trust me, its a blessing in disguise.
You dont want to rush a1st time can light project and settle for a halogen. Then try and change it all over later to LED.


Quote:
Thistlegorm


Cool!!


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